Steak Town USA: Down a remote road, find a ghost town — and one of Nebraska’s best steaks

It’s not unusual these days to sit down at a table at The Speakeasy, the old-school steakhouse located in an honest-to-goodness ghost town a few miles outside Holdrege and be served a decidedly new-school cut of meat.

On a recent Saturday night, it was a 14-ounce WinterFrost American wagyu ribeye, harvested from Japanese Black, American-bred cattle raised hormone free, then served with a deliciously charred exterior and a juicy, fatty red center.

This is inside the same steakhouse where, not so long ago, Chef/Owner Ryan Puls, who took over the family restaurant in 2017 after returning to Nebraska from Seattle, had a hard time selling a pork belly appetizer. Why? Because hardly any diner knew what pork belly was – or how mouth-watering Puls’ version is.

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